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Any one have any good information on alternative fuels? Like using flue gas, and vegitable oil etc?

Read an article in the "furrow" about soyaoil being turned into diesel by removing something?,Sounded quite promising

robert,
What did you think about the way they push soydiesel at Louisville and you never hear much anywhere else.

Guys, the U.S. Dept of Energy has a comprehensive site re alternative fuels with links to other info at
http://www.afdc.nrel.gov

Ill have to reread the article,Jeff,I also remember something about the Chicago Water police trialing it for marine use,One main feature in the article was how they were driving an F-250 super duty around while running on this stuff,Been trying to figure out how I can sqiush some of my lupins to achieve the same result,At a 1.00aus/liter getting just a tad pricy

Alternate fuels.Got a dandy little example here.No picture, just a cross sectional drawing of the upper cyl./head.Described as an "intresting application of the pre-combustion chamber".Called the Rupamoter-invented by German enpineer Rudolph Pawlikowski and will "operate on any solid or liquid fuel that will burn" including:Pulverized coal, potato peelings, sawdust, leaves, hay, cotton hulls, and etc.Looks like they wanted to feed the pulverized fuel into the pre-chamber,touch it off with a little oil, and then give it a blast of air at 850 psi.This thing would take re-cycling to a new level if I had one on a lawn mower.The inventor says one engine converted from a diesel has shown only 1/4 in. cast iron cyl. wear in 20 years of testing while suppling power for the company's machine shop.I'll post a pic of this bully if I ever get my act together.Also have some info on 2 stroke and 4 stroke pumps with the pumped liquid acting as a piston.Gasous fuel-spark ignition.

Sounds interesting Enginenut. Sure would like to know how they introduced the solid fuel in. And how it is metered. Saw dust and wood chips would be the way to go. All the wood debris from clearing is chipped. But there would be dirt and sand to contend with. I supposed it could be washed.

I have an Allis Chalmers HD 5 with a Detroit 271. I have a serious problem with a lot of oil or fuel ?? coming out of the exhaust. It showers you with oil while using. I might add that the exhaust pipe is loose in the muffler. I have had this problem for sometime. I recently rebuilt the engine with new rings and bearings and had the head resurfaced and it seems to be a lot worse now. I previously put dye in the crankcase oil and was unable to find evidence of it in the exhaust, so I believe it to be fuel. I did not adjust the injectors or rack when reassembling but just reinstalled it as it was when I removed it. Could this be my problem? Any help in this regard would be extremely appreciated. Pat Evans

Remove the air box covers, do you have lots of oil in there? If so most likely it is blower seals. You said you did all that work to it. Did you have anything done or do anything with the blower? It is the most likely spot for oil entering the combustion chamber of those 2 cycle diesels. It is close to impossible for oil to get in anywhere else. Because of the positive pressure at all times in the cylinder.
If it is fuel. You would have lots of black smoke all the time. Or some misfiring. But on a 2 cylinder engine you would really notice that.
I say blower seals.

I've heard others say it is due to blower seals.
The seal damage is caused when shutting the power down by pulling the air shutoff abruptly. This causes considerable suction momentarily inside the blower housing and the negative pressure damages the seals.

Hey guys, Thanks for the info. Guess I'll try looking at the blower. I was almost convinced it was fuel and the injectors needed adjusting. Pat

If you didn't adjust the injectors & valves after having the head off, it's really a wonder it runs at all. Try it & see the improvement.;o)

How did you put the seals in the pistons for the piston pins? A seal not in right will let oil into the air box. FRED

FS:471 Detroit diesel engine from 1953 GMC 650. In frame with radiator, can start & run for demo.
Newark, Ohio $2500.00 740 366 5477

That is a bit pricy for an antique. I'd say more like the 500.

Re: My 271 Detroit:
After the overhaul I again removed the pistons and sent them out and had new plugs installed on the pin holes. It was done by an engine machine shop. Since my last writing I have removed the injectors and had them tested. They were alright. I have reinstalled them and am now about to adjust them (like I should have done in the first place) and the valves and will hope for the best. I've been a mechanic for close to 40 years, but haven't done anything much with diesel tuning. I guess it's time to learn. Thanks again guys. I'll come back with the results later. Pat

When you pulled out the pistons did you check to see which way the oil rings were facing. The older engines had rings that were directional.

Just a thought.

Agree 100% with John C and would also ask the machine shop if they vacuum tested the plugs as well as filled the pistons with fuel when they were tuned over to check for any leaks.
It sure is a lot easier to fix a problem now then to discover you are pumping oil into an air box once you fire it up!!!!!!!!

Dead cylinder in a Allis Hd5g ok guys I need your help . I have a Allis hd5g with a 271 Detriot , It has a dead # 2 cylinder when I got it . Have blew out all lines replaced the fuel filters , still dead hole .Checked fuel pump out by swaping with one from a good running dozer same problem Installed new remaned injectors , same problem , swaped the new injectors same problem , Injectors are timed at 1.484 . Ok I thought burned valves so I had a head remaned with new valves ,guides and injectors tubes, same problem . valves set at .012 cold . Head gaskets looked good no leaks . Pistons looked good with some cross hatch still visable on wall of the cylinder . Any Ideas ? Thanks in advance Mark Anderson

tiffbus, are you instaling the pistons from the top?? you should really lift the liners with the pistons and re-instal from the bottom to avoid chipping the oil control rings.then slip the complete piston/liner assy. back in one go.virtually impossible do do alone unless the engine is out and lying on its side.The oil control rings have two knife edges on each which must face down. also clean the two airbox drain pipes. take them right out to clean also make sure the box is clean in their vicinity.

FOR SALE- 471 Detroit Diesel runs great $1200.00 Located in Leesburg, Va. office# 703-792-6082

Have a 1980 655 allis chalmers, would like to know how to find out what motor is in unit and horse pwr rating

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Hi, Y'all--Great site,hope you don't change a thing. Have some engines for sale--2 Oliver 88 6cyl diesels(Waukesha). 1 Oliver OC-6 diesel (Waukesha)
Many extra parts. $300 for all. St.Augustine,Fl.
9048243917

Hi...I have an Australian Chamberlain tractor with 306 Perkins diesel engine.I recently bought this tractor,& first thing I did was to fully service it.I worked it for 3 hours & it ran very well.
Tractor sat for 5 weeks, but after starting it ,I notice that the capillary OIL PRESSURE gague is not showing any pressure at all.Tractor ran for a minute before I noticed the gague & shut it down.
Any suggestions??
Thanks.

Sometimes you can loosen the line at the gauge start the engine for a second til the oil starts to leak from the fitting: The purpose for this is to check for air in the line. Retighten the fitting and start the engine and check the pressure then. If you still have no pressure try another gauge on it.Make sure its working correctly before going any farther.
If you still have no pressure I would then check replace the oil pump, if still no pressure you will probably have to replace the main bearings
Just a matter of elimanation at this point.

Thanks BILL
A mate of mine gave me same advice.I think I'll fit a new gague & take it from there.

Good Luck with your Machine let me know what the problem and solution is

well,still no oil pressure.So I took off oil filter....no oil at all.
I just pulled sump off,suction screen seems OK.
Should I just replace pump,or are there other steps I should take.??
thanks guys.

Try replacing the pump and go from there its a process of elimination actually but if your pressure don't show up the mains are shot I would say but again its anybodys guess as to the problem.

Hi Bill
The local Perkins guy told me that ,as the oil filter is mounted upside down,a tractor left idle for some time will mean that the oil will seep back down & an air problem may arise.
He told me that the 6 cyl Perkins are known for this,& the way to combat it is to use a proper Perkins oil filter,which stops that oil loss from filter,thus eliminating air problem.
On inspection,my pump & associated fittings,lines & joins all appeared OK.I'm gonna clean it all up & try the theory.Silly thing is that the genuine Perky oil filter cost less than the imposter!
Thanks for your interest..D&C.

that happens alot nowadays for sure with the cost of other stuff so its best to try checking around to get a better price if you can but on that type oil pump with a valve that works one way under without pressure to force it back out an imposter may be a deadly cost also.
Hope you have your problem solved now and thats the important thing

Hey BILL
It worked....I put everything back together,added the genuine Perkins filter & started her up.
The first few seconds, showed no oil pressure,so I gave her a few revs & oil came up.
The Perkins guy told me that a lot of 306 engines got rebuilt under warranty...a farmer would start the tractor,go indoors & have a cofee,& come back ready to start work....only to find the engine seized because the oil pressure had not come up.
It pays to check at start up...another lesson learned.
These engines run nicely,so I'll have to ensure I keep it in good order.Thanks BILL.

Glad you got her going again and hope that it last for a long time Perkins has a good engine but has its downfalls like all others. Glad to have helped out what I could with the limited knowledge and the knack to use the process of elimination of trouble shooting

I need a motor for a Galion T500 motorgrader. It is a Cummins 180. Serious!!! Call me @ 325-537-9271 or @ jackyabilene@aol.com. Mobil 325-3338-5288. Ask for Jacky or Shorty.

Does anyone have a motor for a Kubota R310 wheel loader. The motor is Engine #150729 and the serial # is 10052. I also need the manuals for these off breaded son of a guns. 325-537-9271

Will a D282 bolt up to a 1956 TD9.

good 1215397420187

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